Living in Uji
Before Uji was known for matcha, before it was known for The Tale of Genji, it was known for its river. The Uji River runs fast and cold out of Lake Biwa, cutting through a narrow valley before widening at the town. I live close enough to hear it on quiet nights.
Cormorant fishing (ukai) is one of Japan's oldest fishing traditions — documented for over 1,300 years. A trained cormorant dives for sweetfish (ayu) in the river at night, guided by a master fisherman (usho) who controls the bird with a leash.
The birds work in the dark, lit only by the flame of an iron basket (kagaribi) suspended over the bow of the boat. The fire attracts the fish to the surface. It is, by any measure, an extraordinary thing to watch.
Cormorant fishing on the Uji River was revived in 1926 and has been held every summer since. 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of that revival.